Over the course of a month in New Zealand, we sampled about 40 different beers, from over 20 breweries stretching from Emerson's in Dunedin, near the southern tip of the South Island, to a number of Auckland-area brewers not far from the top of the North Island.
While craft brewing is growing very fast in New Zealand - many of the smaller breweries were opened in the last decade - the styles are distinctly different from those found in the US. I'm not sure what brewpubs and small breweries were producing when the American craft brew boom began, but now many of the breweries have gone in the direction of "extreme beer," which could mean anything from the revival of an ancient Ethiopian brew to a beer hoppy enough to blow the average drinker's tastebuds off.
That may well be in New Zealand's future, but right now they seem to be focused on turning out very fine versions of some traditional beer styles, with lagers and pilsners, always very popular in New Zealand, very much to the fore. Many of the breweries make use of local hops - we saw hop fields between Nelson and Golden Bay, in the northern part of the South Island - but they don't dump great quantities in: even a beer that one brewery billed as being pretty hoppy was really quite mild.
Since I'm quite a fan of a finely-crafted pilsner or lager I was in heaven for the entire month, and several of the beers left a lingering impression. I've listed every beer we tried, or every beer we can remember trying, below. Among the lagers/pilsners I'd highlight Wanaka's Brewski, the Tuatara Pilsner, and Wigram Brewing Company's Bavarian Pilsner, one of the most enjoyable beers I've had anywhere in the past couple of years. Other highlights enjoyed Harrington's amusingly-named Wobbly Boot Porter, the Mac family of beers, and the unusual range on offer at the Mussel Inn, including a very tart lambic and a beer flavored with manuka, a local tree (Mata brewing company - with a female head brewer, a rarity in brewing - also has an interesting manuka-flavoured beer).
Considering that New Zealand has a population of just 4.2 million people, they sustain a remarkable number of breweries: we could probably have sampled twice as many beers with a little bit more time, or a little less attention to the health of our livers. That is what the return visit will have to focus on: the ones that got away.
And here's the evidence that we took our beer research seriously:
Brown Teal Ale (Pacific Brew Ltd for Organic Action)
Croucher Brewing Company Czech Pilsner
Croucher Brewing Company Pale Ale
Dux de Lux Hereford Bitter
Dux de Lux Lager
Dux de Lux Nor'wester
Emerson's Bookbinder
Emerson's 1812 India Pale Ale
Green Fern Organic Lager (West Coast Brewing Co.)
Green Man Best Bitter
Harrington's Pilsner
Harrington's Wobbly Boot Porter AleMac's Black Mac
Mac's Gold
Mac's Great White (Belgian Wit)
Mac's Hop Rocker Pilsner
Mac's Sassy Red
Mata Artesian
Mata Manuka
Monteith's Original Ale
Monteith's Celtic
Monteith's Black Beer
Monteith's Pilsner
Mussel Inn Captain Cooker
Mussel Inn Dark Horse Black Beer
Mussel Inn Golden Goose Lager
Mussel Inn Lambagreeny Lambic
Mussel Inn Red
Speight's Old Dark
TaaKawa Ale (brewed by Steam Brewing Company)
Tuatara Ardennes
Tuatara IPA
Tuatara London Porter
Tuatara Pilsner
Twisted Hop Golding Bitter
Waikato Draught
Wanaka Beerworks Brewski
Wanaka Beerworks Cardrona Golden
Wanaka Beerworks Tall Black
Wigram Brewing Co. Bavarian Pilsner
Winnie's Ale
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